Every fall, plaid comes back like an old friend. Flannel shirts, school skirts, blanket scarves: we all know the classics. And every year I find myself asking the same question. Why does plaid have to be so predictable?

At SingleTree Lane I treat plaid as a starting point, not a rule. Its grid of crossing lines is one of the oldest patterns in the world, and it is also one of the most flexible. Change the colors, change the scale, mix it with something unexpected, and plaid becomes wearable art.

Plaid or tartan? A quick history

People use the two words interchangeably, but they are not quite the same. A tartan is a specific woven pattern of crossing stripes, many of them tied to Scottish clans and regions. In Scotland, a "plaid" originally meant the large piece of tartan cloth worn draped over the shoulder. Over time, especially in America, "plaid" became the everyday word for the pattern itself.

From there plaid traveled everywhere: to lumberjacks and farmers, to punk in the 70s, to grunge in the 90s, to runways and school uniforms. Few patterns have been both rebellious and preppy at the same time. That range is exactly why I love designing with it.

Why bold plaid feels new again

Classic plaid is usually red and black or green and navy. Beautiful, but familiar. When you rework plaid in unexpected color combinations, like pink with orange or turquoise with purple, the pattern stops looking traditional and starts looking like art.

That is the idea behind our Plaid Clothing collection: sweatshirts, wide leg pants, joggers and more, where the grid becomes a canvas for color.

How to wear plaid pants

Plaid pants are the piece people are most curious about and most nervous to try. They are easier than they look.

• Keep the top solid. Choose one color from the plaid and wear it on top. The outfit instantly looks pulled together.
• Black is your friend. A black tee, sweater or turtleneck with colorful plaid pants is polished and modern.
• Match the mood with shoes. Sneakers make plaid relaxed and playful. Boots make it ready for fall evenings.
• Mind the scale. Large plaids are a statement. Smaller plaids read almost like texture from across the room.

Plaid on top: sweatshirts, pullovers and layers

A plaid sweatshirt or cropped pullover is the easiest way to wear the pattern every day. Pair it with jeans or solid joggers and you are done. For colder months, a plaid sweatshirt over a collared shirt feels cozy and a little bit collegiate.

Our Gold Label sweatshirts include several tartan and plaid designs, and if you want plaid as an accessory first, a plaid hobo scarf bag is the easiest place to start.

Mixing plaid with other prints

This is where plaid gets really fun. Plaid is a geometric pattern, so it pairs naturally with softer or rounder prints.

Plaid and florals is the classic mix: structured lines against organic shapes. Keep one shared color between them.

Plaid and polka dots is playful and graphic. Small dots with a bold plaid works best. I share more mixing ideas in my guide to wearing polka dots.

Plaid and stripes is for the brave. Choose prints in the same color family so the eye reads them as one look. Our Striped Clothing collection is a good place to find a partner.

Plaid beyond fall

Plaid is not only for sweater weather. Lighter plaids in bright colors work beautifully in spring, and a plaid rain jacket makes a gray day a lot more cheerful. Take a look at our colorful rain jackets for proof.

Professional stylists use pattern the same way they use color, to make an outfit memorable. I wrote about how they do it in Why Professional Stylists Use Color.

Plaid has been worn by clans, farmers, rebels and schoolkids for centuries. It has room for you too. Pick a plaid in colors you love, keep the rest simple, and wear it your own way.